Thursday 30 December 2010

Some surf to see out the year. Not massive but clean and fairly quiet considering its the holidays and everyone is off work.
Better still I got a brand new wetsuit through the post as well. And not just any wetsuit. A Patagonia, reputedly the best wetsuit that money can buy. Only 3 mil but apparently that is all you need with these suits as they have a merino wool lining (that will smell nice at the end of the winter!). It looks mighty fine too - understated, black neoprene with a small decal on the chest and built in hood.
Looks like its going to be a little bit on the small side tomorrow but New Years day is going to be an absolute barnstormer on the south coast so the suit will definitely get a test run in the next two days.
No resolutions planned yet other than the usual drink less/ eat better/ surf more rubbish that I come up with every year. Hope you had a good Christmas and wish you a great 2011.

Thursday 16 December 2010


Its very easy to get blase about your surroundings I think, especially when you are born in a pretty special part of the country. What I mean is that I drive (though I should cycle) to work past open countryside and pitch up at a beach (today Church Cove over on the Lizard) and don't seem to notice the sheer beauty of where I live. I think I need to wake myself up to this a bit more often. Cornwall is great and I love it. Love it, love it, love it.

Monday 6 December 2010


At then there was surf. The Atlantic roared into life on the south coast at Porthleven today. Smoking overhead barrels poured in at Wrestles (the swell was missing the main reef for some reason) and surfers from all over the county made the most of it. Newquay ripper Tom Butler was a standout and St Ives boy (and, ahem, ex academy surfer) Jayce Robinson got some absolute belters. Fingers crossed and the swell will stay around for a few days.